Thursday, July 9, 2009

Hebron and Leaving Israel

Yesterday I went to Hebron with a few friends. Hebron is the largest city in the West Bank, home to 166,000 Palestinians and 500 Jewish settlers. Hebron is quite contentious...it has been the site of much violence between Jews and Arabs in the past. Because the Cave of the Patriarchs is located in Hebron, Hebron is considered the second holiest city in Judaism, after Jerusalem. Although things have been relatively quiet there since the last intifada ended, Hebron is still considered an unstable area and is thus heavily guarded. We actually had to take a bullet-proof from Jerusalem to Hebron. Definitely an "only in Israel" type thing.

The Cave of the Patriarchs is supposedly the burial place of four couples: Adam and Eve, Abraham and Sarah, Jacob and Leah, and Isaac and Rebekah. It is a holy site for Jews, Christians, and Muslims. Even though the area is controlled by Israel, Muslims control most of the complex. Jews are forbidden from entering the tombs of Isaac or Rebekah excepting ten days of the year that hold special significance in Judaism. The area Jews are allowed to enter is basically just a few connected rooms with chairs and Arks scattered throughout to allow for prayer. The tombs are located behind steel bars--each tomb has their own little room. The tombs basically look like gigantic coffins covered in material. It was very interesting--somewhat anti-climatic, but hey--all three major world religions believe our patriarchs and matriarchs are buried there. I wandered among the burial place of the folks God entrusted with starting modern world religion; I can dig it.


Sarah's tomb
 The Jewish area of Hebron is sectioned off from the rest of Hebron by police barricades, and it was eerily quiet. It truly felt as though we were walking through a ghost town. All the shops--which had previously been run by Arabs--were closed. Israel soldiers were stationed everywhere, their guns at the ready. From a lookout point, we were able to see Hebron stretched out beneath us--a large, bustling city. A striking contrast from the Jewish section. The soldiers were all very nice to us, inquired as to what we could possibly be doing there, (they probably thought we were crazy!) and a few asked us if we were Jewish. There wasn't much to do there besides visit the Tomb of the Patriarchs, but we walked around for a while before heading home.

 Hebron, West Bank
 I am being kicked out of my apartment tomorrow and am staying at a friends house for the next three days. We have been frantically packing and cleaning the apartment all day today. My flight leaves Monday morning. I don't know where the past 5 months have gone and I have extremely mixed emotions about leaving. One minute I feel the desire to leave Israel--I'm tired of certain things here and I miss home. Yet the next minute, I dread leaving--this has been my home for the past 5 months, and I am leaving my friends and life here. Israel is such a crazy, unique, beautiful country and I'm afraid it will be years and years until I will return. But I know that I want to come back. I must come back. Israel is my homeland, and it's part of me now. These past 5 months have been the best months of my life, and coming here was the best decision I have made thus far in my life. I learned a great deal about myself, and surprised myself on many occasions. I had a great internship and gained valuable career experience, I took advantage of being here and traveled throughout the country (and to Egypt!), and did almost everything I wanted to. I really have no regrets, and I think that is the most important thing. So I'm undeniably sad, but I think it is time to leave. I also know I will appreciate so many things about home and America that I took for granted before!!

Next stop: European adventure.... (I'll be back home in El Paso August 4)